FACTFILE OF THE VINEYARD OF CONDRIEU A.O.C. since 1940. Color: Blanc. Grape variety: viognier. AOC Surface area: 250 ha. Production surface: approximately 140 ha. Communes: Condrieu, St Michel sur Rhône, Vérin, Chavanay, St Pierre de Boeuf, Malleval, Limony. Départements: Rhône, Loire, Ardèche. Soil: granites décomposés. Particularities: vineyard in terraces, south/ southeast oriented. Altitude: 250 m approximately. maximum autorized output: 37 hl/ha. Annual production: 4000 hl. The Viognier grape variety The Condrieu AOC is home to only one grape: Viognier. History According to the latest scientific research, Viognier’s origins are in the wild vines of the northern Côtes du Rhône. For a long time Viognier was only known about due to the wine of Condrieu, made from fairly small plantations. The great attack of phylloxera, and then the Great War, prompted growers to abandon their vines, and Viognier barely survived, grown over just a few hectares (8ha in 1965). As recently as 1986, only 20ha of Viognier was planted, all in Condrieu. The appellation gradually recovered and the planted area developed to reach the current 140 ha. During this period, Viognier began to travel beyond the boundaries of Condrieu – to southern France and abroad. As of 2005, 3,255ha in France was planted with Viognier. Regions of use In France, Viognier is the only variety used to make Condrieu, a rare wine much sought by enthusiasts, and its neighbour, Château-Grillet. It is also traditionally used in Côte Rôtie to complement the dominant Syrah (up to 20% of estates are planted with it). Since the 1990s, it has also been enjoyed in southern France, both to complement other varieties and on its own in varietal wines. Further afield, Viognier is grown in Italy, Spain, Greece, Switzerland and Austria. But it has met with most success outside Europe. It is one of the main white-grape varieties in America, and primarily in California. It is also very popular in Australia, where it accounts for 70% of white-grape vine plantations. Description It can identified by : - the ends of the young branches, which have medium-dense flat hairs, - its young green leaves with slightly bronze markings. - its adult leaves, light or medium green in colour, disc-shaped, of small to medium size, with three to five lobes; a petiolar sinus open to varying degrees; shallow lower side sinuses; medium-sized teeth with rectilinear or convex sides, or with one convex side and one concave side; no anthocyanic pigmentation of the veins; a bubble-like lamina, curly on the edges and inner surface; low to medium density; and erect and flat hairs. - its round grapes. Phenology Bud burst period: like the Chasselas grape variety; Ripening period : second period, two and a half weeks after Chasselas. Crop and agronomic details This variety is long-pruned though moderately so (it can sometimes be slightly sensitive to the wind), with fairly high planting density. Traditionally cultivated in acidic soil, in southern regions it is well suited to soils that are deep enough, though not too fertile, to cope with the potential drought in southern-French areas. Bud burst occurs early, exposing it to spring frosts. Vulnerability to disease and pests Viognier has no particular vulnerability to disease. It is not over-sensitive too grey rot. Technological potential Viognier produces small bunches of small grapes. Because of its varietal characteristics, in favourable conditions it allows the making of wines that are highly aromatic (with notes of apricot and peach, among others), complex, powerful and of great quality. Viognier yields wines that are hearty (thanks to their potential for high sugar content) and fleshy, but sometimes lack acidity and occasionally are slightly bitter. The variety’s grapes may also be used to make sweet and sparkling wines, or be blended (in proportions of 5%-10%; and more in the old days) with other grapes, Syrah mainly, to add finesse and aromatic character to red wines. Clonal selection There was peviously only one approved clone (clone no. 642), which has been used very widely in recent years. An extensive selection programme has been launched to increase to create new healthy strains. Selection possibilities are restricted by the poor health of the (small) population that forms the traditional Viogner vineyards in the Condrieu area. However, the recently-approved clones 1042 and 1051 were selected for their growing characteristics and the quality of the wines they yield. NEW SELECTIONS The Condrieu appellation, which was nearly abandoned and had dwindled to 10ha (25 acres) in the 1970s, has since been extensively replanted; the planted area now exceeds 120ha. Most of these new vines were replanted using massal selections from surviving vines, as the only certified clone available at the time was of lesser quality. This clone was thus not widely planted in the AOC area, even though many old vines were virus-affected. The small number of available clones and the poor health of the massal selections meant there was a risk of the genetic variety of Viognier becoming extinct. With backing from France’s national technical establishment for grape-growing improvement (Entav) and the local Chambers of Agriculture, the AOC trade body decided to take action: in 2001, a conservation centre was established to isolate the most interesting old strains. This facility, which comprises only virus-free strains, will make it possible to select new clones and make new massal selections. Geology and pedology of the CONDRIEU AOC area OVERVIEW In this part of the Rhône Valley, events over the geological timescale up to recent times have resulted in the existence of special, strongly-linked structural, petrographic and morphological features that form one of the fundamental criteria of vineyard development in the Condrieu AOC. The right bank of the Rhône Valley, between Saint-Romain-en-Gal and Serrières, is extremely varied in its topography. Flattish terraces of recently deposited alluvium from the river (average altitude: 140m), abuts the very sharp slopes that rise up to the rugged Pélussin Plateau (average altitude: 350m). The vines have made their home on these slopes, in scattered strips or more substantial colonies – but all clinging to the mother rock thanks to numerous narrow terraces (called chayées locally) that require continual care. LITHOLOGICAL DETAILS The lithological formations underlying the communes that host the Condrieu AOC differ greatly in age. They are a material reflection of how, in this place, the eastern edge of the Massif Central and the Rhône Valley come into brutal contact. Primary Terrains These form the sharp slopes between the low-lying alluvial terraces on the banks of the Rhône and Pelussin Plateau, as well as the plateau itself. These are magmatic rocks, among which the dominant types are granites (Condrieu, Vérin, Saint-Michel, Chavanay), metamorphic rocks, leptinites and anatexites (in northern Condrieu, western Verlieu in the commune of Chavanay, southern Chavanay, and Saint-Pierre-de-Boeuf). These rocks have fairly similar compositions, characterised by the following minerals: quartz, black and white mica, and feldspaths. All of these rocks are fairly resistant to mechanical erosion, which partly explains the presence of the steep slopes that support the vines. Quaternary Terrains Loess: during the last glaciations, about 15,000 years ago, the glaciers of the Alps were just a few kilometres from the valley, which had an icy, steppe-like climate. Violent winds carried large quantities of mineral, limestone, quartz and clay particles, and this matter was deposited at the head of the glaciers, forming l?ss sheets. Today a few rare examples remain, and can be viewed mainly at Saint-Pierre-de-Boeuf and Chavanay. In conclusion, the terrains of the Condrieu AOC area are almost entirely granites and metamorphic rocks dating from the primary era, with small quantities of loess sheets. These rocks from the primary era have a great capacity to store heat, and therefore help the Viognier grapes in Condrieu to ripen well. STRUCTURAL DETAILS Certain events have decisively influenced these rocks. Over geological time, they have been affected by intense tectonic forces which have caused a number of crack-inducing deformations – a fundamental factor in the behaviour of the rocks. Major tectonic phases, faults and fractures The first tectonic phase of major importance belongs to the Hercynian orogenesis at the end of the primary era. This resulted in cracks, faults and fractures that appeared following horizontal compressions. These shifts are systematically oriented NE-SW. The second phase, which registered with only low intensity on the eastern edge of the Massif Central, corresponds to the much more recent Alpine orogenesis. This reactivated older faults. Outcrop fracturing Coincident with the major tectonic phases was minor fracturing that affects the eruptive and metamorphic rock on the metre and decimeter scales. These fractures are fully visible in all the outcrops in the area. The fractures permit infiltration of surface water, and are therefore of fundamental importance: they promote penetration of water into the rocks, and thus development of alteration phenomena related to earth activity. For these reasons, terracing is required where the vines thrive. PEDOGENESIS AND ALTERATION Description Since the primary era, the rocks have been subject on several occasions to the effects of chemical and biochemical alteration; in the tropical climates that existed at those times, this alteration destroyed considerable amounts of rock. No traces of these major alterations can today be recognised in the environs of Condrieu. Nowadays the climate is not aggressive, although the vegetation-hosting soils that clad the mother rock cause a very moderate form of alteration. As a result, there is “active pedogenesis” (or soil evolution/formation) relative to the soils and to the waters that circulate through them. Granites and metamorphic rocks are in some cases highly sensitive to alteration and to current pedogenesis: • Quartz, a highly resistant mineral, has not been affected by pedogenesis in our climate; • Feldspaths have an architecture that is very prone to water-influenced alteration. These are both silicates, which decompose into two categories of product: - Elements that dissolve into, and are carried away by, water running through the soil (potassium, sodium, calcium); - Aluminium silicates (clays), which form where the feldspaths were previously located; • Micas, which are also silicates but are less easily altered than feldspaths; when they do, they yield soluble potassium, iron and magnesium. In conclusion, we can say that the various attacks to which these rocks are subject result in elimination of their initial structure, the acquisition of a new permeability, and partial transformation into clay. Organisation of altered products - Healthy granite occupies the deep sections of the outcrops; - Within the altered fringe, the rock is friable in appearance and the fractures are rich in clay. These cracks strongly promote installation of the vine’s root system: their physical discontinuity is conducive to its development, and to the build-up of reserves of water supplied by the clay. This is why the vines on the sub-scorched slopes of the Condrieu AOC are very healthy, except in exceptionally dry years. - The top layer of the fringe, which is never very thick, consists of altered or intact minerals and fragments of rocks and clay; it is the crumbly part of the substrate. - Lastly, man’s actions have stabilised this crumbly layer and retains it thanks to the terraces, which enable the formation of soil richer in organic matter and the development of a profile in which the clays build up at depth. History of Condrieu’s vineyards The cradle of Viognier is located in Condrieu and on the slopes of the neighbouring villages. Up until recently, the variety was only planted in these areas. Legend has it that the Roman emperor Probus imported it from the coasts of Dalmatia. But in all likelihood, it has local origins. The site of Condrieu, like all the Rhône Valley, has long been settled by humans. It was first a Gallo-Roman village before becoming the property of the Chapter of Lyon. The castle that dominates the town was built in the 12th century by the archbishop in order to withstand the many assaults of those troubled times. Condrieu, like Saint Michel and Vérin, were the first suppliers of the brave sailors who, for centuries, ran the river trade route between Lyon and Beaucaire. Condrieu’s wines have enjoyed an excellent reputation for generations. The popes, during the era when they resided in Avignon, were most appreciative, and in the 16th century the Chapter of Lyon served it to distinguished guests. Closer to the present day, celebrated gastronome Curnonsky rated it one of the finest white wines in France. Unfortunately, phylloxera, the Great War and then the 1930s economic crisis, coupled with growing industrialisation, prompted many growers in the area to abandon their vines. Condrieu wine market, the oldest in the area, ceased to be in the 1950s... due to a lack of makers. Soon there was no more than 10 hectares (25 acres) cultivated, compared to the 170 registered when the Condrieu AOC was established in 1940 and only covered land in three communes: Condrieu, Vérin and Saint-Michel. In 1967 the appellation was extended to embrace the four neighbouring villages: Chavanay, Saint-Pierre-de-B?uf, Malleval and Limony. This increased the AOC area to 387ha, but the planted area was still just 10 or so hectares. A question-mark hung over the appellation’s future, as echoed by a student report in 1975, entitled “Are the vineyards doomed?”. In the 1980s the vineyards, kept alive by a handful of Viognier lovers, thankfully benefited from the same vibrant market as their neighbours in Côte Rôtie and Saint-Joseph. The abandoned hillsides were replanted, the low walls were rebuilt, and the appellation’s survival seemed assured. In 1986, the vignerons of Condrieu were faced with a growing number of planting requests. To safeguard the quality of the wines, they further revised the AOC area, excluding all vines above 300 metres altitude. In agreement with the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO), a new boundary delimiting 262ha was drawn up. A third of this area was eliminated to keep only the best-exposed slopes, where Viognier ripens best. For many centuries, the wine of Condrieu has been enjoyed as a sweet wine, made with grapes often harvested around All Saints Day (1st November). Then, in the early 20th century, dry wines began to appear; and by the 1950s, most Condrieu was being made this way, although a few vignerons continue to produce a sweet version. These were no longer necessarily made with over-ripe grapes, but often wines whose fermentation was arrested – a method that has now practically vanished. With the replanting of the vineyards well under way (about 140ha is now planted), with the production area trimmed to consist of only the best hillsides, a number of growers, given the frequent years of high maturity since 1990, have tried to revive the sweet Condrieu of yesteryear. With the first experiments proving satisfactory, more and more makers are taking an interest in this over-ripe crop and vinifying a few barrels – it amounts to 3%-4% of total output in the Condrieu AOC. Condrieu wines are thus mainly made dry, but are very rich and fragrant thanks to the Viognier grape, which can here give full expression to its nobility. Large Langoustines Baked with Salt and Aromatic Herbs, Gnocchi and Confit Tomatoes, Beurre Soufflé with Rice Vinegar and Abyssinian Tea. Note: this recipe can also be made with large mussels, lobster or scallops. Ingredients to serve 8: 16 chervil sprigs (for decoration) 16 shelled langoustines (keep the end of the tail). 500g rock salt Skin of a lemon or lime. 2 garlic cloves – 3 dry fennel stems – 4 rosemary sprigs. 8 fresh thyme sprigs - 4 savoury sprigs – 10cl olive oil – 1 dash dry white wine. Ingredients for the Gnocchi and Confit Tomatoes: Confit Tomatoes: Oven-bake (at very low heat) 16 tomato quarters with the olive oil, thyme, garlic, salt and pepper. When they have dried out, set aside the tomatoes and oil in an earthenware pot, in a cool place. Lime Gnocchi: • 200g rock salt, garlic, thyme and bay leaf to cook the potatoes • Potatoes (variety: Mona Lisa) to make 250g of mash • One 50g egg and half an egg yoke, 15g of lime zests, 130g fine flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg Beurre monté to make the gnocchi: • 20g butter, 20cl reduced chicken stock, salt and pepper Beurre Soufflé with Rice Vinegar: • 30g chopped shallots and 10g white onions • 1 small bouquet garni – 40g fresh butter • 15cl rice vinegar – 15cl dry white wine • 1 pinch salt – 1 pinch ginger • 1 tsp icing sugar or liquid honey • 30cl strong vegetable stock • Soy sauce. • 5g hibiscus flowers (Abyssinian tea) Preparation: A Marinate the langoustines for about 2hrs in a dish with the lemon skins and garlic cloves; set aside in a cool place. In a cast-iron pressure cooker, put a layer of salt about 5cm thick. On the salt place the dry fennel, the rosemary, thyme and savoury sprigs, the lemon skins from the marinade and the garlic cloves. Cover and dry-heat the salt until it’s cooking time. B Place the dried tomatoes on a dish and warm them. Gnocchi: oven-bake the potatoes (in their skins) on coarse salt, with the garlic, thyme and bay leaf. Then peel them and sieve to make a fine purée. Drizzle on the flour and also add the egg, the egg yolk, and the spinach leaves together with the lemon zests, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Fold in all the ingredients to make a consistent paste, then roll into pieces 1.5cm to 2cm in diameter. Then shape and mark the gnocchis with a fork. Poach them in salted boiling water with a little olive oil. Drain the gnocchi in a towel before use. Flash-sauté them in the beurre monté. C Beurre Soufflé: Sauté the chopped shallots and white onions in 10g of butter. Add the bouquet garni, ginger, icing sugar (or honey), deglaze with the rice vinegar and the white wine, reducing by half. Add the vegetable stock. Add a splash of soy sauce. Then finish with butter. Add salt and pepper, and blend. Set aside. D Beurre Rouge: keep a little of the stock from the first butter. Infuse the Abyssinian tea, then finish with butter, blending until you obtain a red butter. Set aside. E Cooking the Langoustines: check that the salt is very hot. Place the (lightly seasoned) langoustines on the salt and aromatic herbs. Deglaze the salt with a dash of white wine and water. Put the lid on a cook for about 30secs. F Serving: Straight after cooking, arrange on each plate two langoustines, three (warmed up) gnocchi and two confittomato quarters. Add a little of the two butters. Decorate with chervil. Accompany with a Condrieu. Winemakers & Negociants ARMELLIE Paul René Chantel - 42520 MALLEVAL BADIOU Didier et Gilbert 2 La Ribaudy - 42410 CHAVANAY BARGE Gilles 8 Bd des Allées - 69420 AMPUIS BAROU Emmanuel Picardel - 7340 CHARNAS BENETIERE Pierre 42 grande rue - 69420 CONDRIEU BERAUD Olivier Chezenas - 42520 ST PIERRE DE BOEUF BERNARD Frédéric et Stéphane DOMAINE GUY BERNARD RN86 - 69420 TUPIN-SEMONS BETTON Laurent 5, La Côte - 42410 CHAVANAY BOISSONNET Frédéric DOMAINE BOISSONNET rue de la voute - 7340 SERRIERES BONNEFOND Patrick et Christophe DOMAINE BONNEFOND Mornas - 69420 AMPUIS BONSERINE DOMAINE DE BONSERINE 2 chemin de la vialliere/verenay - 69420 AMPUISBOU CHER Gerard Vintabrin - 42410 CHAVANAYBRACOUD Francois 28 rte de st prim - 38370 ST CLAIR DU RHONE CHAMBEYRON Bernard Boucharey - 69420 AMPUIS CHAPOUTIER SA BP 38 - 26600 TAIN L'ERMITAGE CHARDON Noel montée de la Caille - 69420 CONDRIEU CHEZE Louis DOMAINE CHEZE Pangon - 7340 LIMONY CHIRAT Gilbert Le Piaton - 42410 ST MICHEL / RHONE CHOL Didier DOMAINE DE BOISEYT-CHOL RN 86 - 42410 CHAVANAY CLERC Louis Gerbey - 38121 CHONAS L' AMBALLAN CLUSEL-ROCH Gilbert et Brigitte DOMAINE CLUSEL-ROCH 15 rte du Lacat/Verenay - 69420 AMPUIS COROMPT François. RN 86 - 42410 VERIN CUILLERON Yves CAVE YVES CUILLERON 58 RN 86 Verlieu - 42410 CHAVANAY DAUBREE Lucette et Martin DOMAINE DE CORPS DE LOUP Corps de loup - 69420 TUPIN SEMONS DUMAZET Marie Paule RN 86 - 7340 LIMONY